Sunday, April 26, 2009

More pictures...

As I said before, these pictures are going to be all in ridiculous mixed up backwards order... deal. :)
This is a bar that is on an island in the middle of the river between Botswana and Namibia- clearly, out of commission due to the flood.


This is how the big trucks were making it across the river at the Botswana/Zambia border- one at a time, very slowly.

Me crossing the river to get to Botswana- our boat took like 3 minutes.


After seeing the falls, we went to the Royal Livingstone hotel so that I could have a massage. It was lovely. In the meantime, Joel sat on their spectacular lawn enjoying a coke and reading. At one point a waiter directed his attention to his feet, and this little croc!


The falls as viewed from up the river, at the Royal Livingstone


At the falls!


All wet at the falls


This mist was like rain on us, HEAVY rain. And the closer we got to the falls, this was the best view we got- tiny moments of cleared mist.

The bridge that connects Zambia to Zimbabwe, also the one Joel bungy jumped off of.

The falls


All dressed up to go nearer the falls.


At the falls



Peekaboo!

Friday, April 24, 2009

Oh my gosh! It's working!

So, it seems the pictures are working...but now I am encountering a new problem where my firefox keeps crashing, so, with every further picture I post I am tempting fate to not erase/lose every picture I've uploaded. So, at this point, I have a whole lot of pictures here, and I'm going to leave it at this for now. I'll try for more tomorrow night.

Forgive the fact that these pictures are in some total mixed up backwards order. :)

Joel out walking his lion...


The girly lions...fierce!


Me taking my lion for a walk!


Lazy lions start to perk up when the air cools...


They were just saying hello...


Posing...


Petting lions...who gets to do that?


Me too...


Dinner? Oh no, that's Joel...too scrawny to eat anyway! :)

Just as we walked up to the lions...


Joel and his elephant friend. :)


Trunk up!


Feeding our elephant.


Elephant ride!


The babies walked with us and ate, ate, ate.


Beautiful Zambian sky...


Doesn't it look like he's giving Joel a kiss? :)


Before our ride started...


Baby! :)


Our elephants!


This is the croc we saw behind our chalet.


The pool at our lodge. Joel sitting where he sat, I sat next to him in the empty chair. We spent whole days there!

These are the bushes that were covered in butterflies- there were so many, it almost seemed the bushes themselves were alive.


In Mosi-o-Tunya national park- Giraffes! :)


What are you looking at?


What can you see in this picture? See, game is hard to spot!


Impala


Zebra


Croc


Hippo!


Giant spider. We saw ridiculous amounts of gigantic spiders in Zambia. Ew. But maybe that is why there were much fewer mozzies.


The chalet we were supposed to stay in...


The water level was so high!


Sunset on the Zambezi


Me, in the sunset


More sunset


Joel, squinting in the sunset...


On the African Queen


Ready to cruise


On the boat

More pictures to come soon! Yay for things working again! :)

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

The rest of the story...

Ok, so where was I?

Oh yeah, so, on Saturday, we rested again. :) Actually, I think we might have gone out to dinner that night, which was nice. We went to an Indian restaurant that had lovely food. On this day, and a couple other instances, we hit the strip mall as well- it had a grocery store (a bit nicer than what we have in Luanda, but not by too much- except, the produce was probably nicer), an internet café (we stopped in there once or twice), a post office, a few shops and a few restaurants. They even had a Subway, which we both had a desire to eat at “just because” but we never were in the right place at the right time (that is, there and hungry). Anyway, the Indian was nice, and as you always do with Indian, we left with a doggy bag (well, in countries where it’s legal to take doggy bags).

The next day, Sunday, was the biggest day I guess, it was the day we headed to Botswana for a day trip to Chobe National Park. We got picked up fairly early, and driven to the border. The border happens to be the river. So at the river we took a boat across- thanking the divine that we weren’t a truck driver waiting in the miles long line to cross the river one truck at a time on a very slow ferry. Our boat buzzed across the river, and we were in Botswana. Another car picked us up- this time it was a safari vehicle. A safari vehicle is one that has three rows of 3 seats across behind the driver’s seat. It had a shade for a rood, and no sides. It is, as you might guess, ideal for animal watching. :) We were driven to very nice hotel where we joined 7 other people who were to spend the day with us.

We started by taking a boat trip down the Chobe River (indeed the same Zambezi River, but called by a new name in a new country). The river runs through the national park, and this was when we started to see animals like no where else. It started slowly, I’ll admit. First it was a couple birds, then three hippos with their backs to us, so that they really just looked like big boulders (boring). Then some more birds, and maybe some impala. But finally, we started seeing more- elephants, hippos, eagles, crocs, more elephants, more hippos, more elephants, more hippos, more impala, and more elephants and more elephants and more hippos, and some more birds, and more elephants than you can count and more hippos.

If you didn’t notice by now, what I’m saying is, we saw A LOT of elephants. It was *almost* to the point of, “Oh, it’s just another elephant.” Which of course is completely absurd. They are so cool! We saw them walking, we saw them eating, we saw them swimming, we saw them drinking, we saw them giving themselves a mud bath, we saw them giving themselves a dust bath. We saw one pee (um, elephant penises? GIANT!!!) and we saw another poop (elephant poop? REALLY BIG!). We saw mammas and papas and every stage of baby- lord were they cute. Again, I wish I could show you pictures. My words do little justice.

The cool thing about going on a game drive or boat cruise like this is that the animals are used to seeing boats and cars- they just see them as another odd animal I guess. But, they don’t see the people in the vehicle as separate from the vehicle. Since they know that the vehicles are not predatory/anything to worry about, they are not afraid or really even bothered by them. If only I could show you the pictures and let you see just how close we got to these animals. It was freaking awesome! This one time, we were so close to this elephant who was drinking/bathing, that some of us actually got scared. We might have bothered him a little by just getting too close- the boat drifted- but the guide reassured us that elephants are not territorial, and that he was only mildly annoyed that we’d invaded his space. As soon as we got out of his way, he went right back to what he was doing. In the meantime, we could have reached out hands out of the boat and touched him.

We floated by lots of hippo pods that morning. Hmmm, pods? I think so. I decided on this trip that hippos are my new favorite animal. They are awesome. My obsession started before I ever saw one too. Why? Well, because we were hearing them so much! Every night, and even often during the day at the lodge we would hear this noise that sounded something like a pig, something like giant frog croak. It’s loud, and deep and surprisingly a sound that Joel also makes now and then when he’s clearing his sinuses or something. Anyway, after hearing it so often at the lodge we asked what it was, and were told, it’s hippos. But, because the water was so high, we never saw the hippos by the lodge, no matter how hard we tried. On the day when we went on the elephant and lion walks, we heard them again at that place (most of the places we visited were all along the river). The guide there told us that just at dusk the hippos would all come out of the water and go graze for the night- of course, this was going to happen just minutes after we would be gone! Dangit! But, we asked the guide there how close the hippo was based on how loud the noise was- he said it was quite near, maybe 40 meters (we were probably sitting 20 meters from the edge of the river, so, the animals were close, but they hide SO WELL!). We knew that this meant that every night at the lodge we were more of less surrounded by hippos, but we couldn’t see them. I often longed for a spot light, because I am sure we would have seen them if we had one.

Anyway, so, by the time I finally got a chance to SEE a hippo, I was obsessed. And they did not let me down. They are awesome. This is why I like them so much. They are huge, roly poly animals. They are of course vegetarians. They sleep in the sun all day, half in the water or fully in the water, if it’s too hot. At night they slowly walk about eating their way from one place to another. Now, don’t get the impression that they are just lazy fatties. They are fierce! Hippos are territorial. So, watch out, because if you get too close, they will mess you up- but not in the way you think they might. They won’t eat you of course, because they are veggos, but, if you’re in a boat, they will walk under your boat (did you know, hippos don’t swim! They WALK!) and then pop up underneath it, thereby overturning it. Then, they will just leave you there, either to drown, or get eaten by something that eats humans- like crocs! If they encounter you on land, they will simply charge you- run straight into, or more like through you. But mostly, I reckon they keep to themselves, hanging out in the water, popping up for air, dipping down below again. I love that the are so big, but have these tiny little ears, and gigantic mouths. I just love em. I looked everywhere for a painted wall hanging of a hippo, but, alas, never found one. I did however find a small hand made felt thing, not very African at all, more like made for a baby’s room of a hippo which I bought. It’ll be put to good use someday, I’m sure. :)
So, after seeing hundreds of elephants and hippos from the boat we headed back to the lodge where we had lunch. The funny thing was that just as we were finishing up I looked up and said, “Isn’t that (insert our Director’s name)?” And it was. He, his wife and another lady from school were just checking into the hotel for a few days stay. We recommended that they go ahead and sign up for the cruise! We didn’t have too long to chat though, as the second part of the day was about to get underway. Now we were headed on a game drive, in one of those safari vehicles, through Chobe. It really was an awesome drive. First of all, Chobe is just beautiful. Trees, hills and valleys, the river, islands etc… but then there were the animals. Again, elephants, elephants and more elephants. Apparently, Chobe actually has some 60,000 elephants, which explains why we saw so many. :)

We also saw more giraffes, birds, impala and other kinds of antelope, kudu (beautiful antlers on those things!), and warthogs. Of course we all desperately wanted to see some cats- the park has lions, leopards and cheetahs, but, because it was so wet, they didn’t need to come near the river for water, and therefore stayed well hidden in the depths of the bush. We learned from some of the other people on the drive with us that to see cats you really have to be up at the crack of dawn or at night, as this is when they are active- we saw how much the cats didn’t like the heat of the day when we walked with the lions a few days earlier, so of course, it made sense. If I could I would just post you more pictures of all the animals, and you would be amazed, but as it is, I’ll just stop here.

On Monday we rested. :) I can tell you that I read well over a 1,000 pages of books during this vacation. I started by finishing Jodi Picoult’s Songs of the Humpback Whale. Then I read Wally Lamb’s latest The Hour I First Believed, which was over 700 pages on its own. Great read by the way, only took me a few days. I also read a nice little romance novel- Nora Roberts anyone? And then a serious literary work, Jose Saragamo’s Death at Intervals. This last one came highly recommended by a colleague, and I hate to say I didn’t like it as much as she did. Oh well. It was a good story, but, his style got to me.

Tuesday was our last full day in Zambia, and we meant to make the best of it. Joel had his heart set on doing one thing- jumping off a 100 meter high bridge over the madly rushing Zambezi River. Yes, he wanted to bungee jump. So, that was the plan for the day- we headed back near the falls to the bridge that connects Zambia and Zimbabwe and Joel jumped. I have a video of the whole thing, which I would again, love to post. I will someday. After the fact I realized it was a good thing I was videoing the jump, as it kept me from really focusing on what he was doing- my tummy was all aflutter anyway. He survived it in one piece though, so we headed off to the next thing.

We had signed up to pay a ridiculous amount of money to fly in a helicopter for 15 minutes over the Vic Falls. I guess I have to say it was worth it. I mean, first of all, how often do you get to ride in a helicopter? It’s not really an every day event. So that was cool on its own. There were a couple little dips in the ride that made me feel like I was going to toss my cookies, but, the ride ended without incident. And it was of course very cool to see the falls from such a vantage point. The falls are a whole kilometer in width which you cannot take in from the ground. Also, after the falls the river flows through deep gorges that twist and turn, which you couldn’t see at all from the ground. Lest I repeat myself too often, we have great pictures, and I’ll post em when I can!

That day we also went to a nice souvenir/local artisan shop and picked up some nice stuff. Joel got an awesome photo album, made from what else, but recycled paper and elephant dung. :) I picked out a hand painted cloth wall hanging of 5 African figures. I also got a safari hat- it’s zebra striped. I wore it to the beach after we got back. :) Everyone is always getting at me to wear a hat when I’m outside here, so now at least I own a hat. :)

So that was about that. Our trip. Oh but wait, there was another wildlife incident that happened not on a game drive, but in our chalet. It involved the mosquito net, as I mentioned in my last post. One morning, must have been the morning of the Chobe trip, as we had the alarm set to wake early, the alarm rang and I snoozed it. But, seeing as I was half awake, I noticed a sound… it sounded like a mouse. I came fully to pretty quickly, and in the dark, followed the sound with my eyes. I realized it was ABOVE us. I looked up and saw that there was definitely something INSIDE our mosquito net, up at the top, trying to climb out, but clearly not making it anywhere, as the net is closed at the top, obviously! I sat up as soon as I realized this, and said to Joel, “Joel there’s a mouse, there’s a mouse!” I jumped out of bed in about 2.2 seconds. Joel of course, half asleep, was asking, “What? Mouse? Where?” “There!” I pointed! He jumped up then too, and decided he would catch it. Then, as soon as he got out of the bed, the mouse dropped right onto the middle of my pillow! Oooeee, I told him then, he was damn lucky that happened then, and not a couple minutes earlier because then he really would have had a frantic female on his hands! Anyway, he said he was going to try to catch it, and he couldn’t, so we left it. We showered, dressed and went off to breakfast, and reported the story.

When we got home from Chobe that day we went into the room only briefly- dropped our bags, and went back to the main house to have dinner. We ended up having a few drinks that night in the bar, so it wasn’t until late that we came back to the room. When we did I went into the bathroom to use the toilet, and guess who I found again? The mouse. Except, he wasn’t really in a position to say hello. Poor little sucker was floating upside down in the toilet bowl. I didn’t like him when he was crawling up the inside of my mosquito net, but, drowning in a toilet is no way to go. I screamed and then made Joel flush him.

Hmm, lets see… what else can I tell you so that I don’t have to end on such a sad story? I mentioned that we really liked the staff at the lodge. Because we were the only ones there, we got to know them pretty well. I also mentioned before that we were always being warned about the crocs. Well, they really worried about us going back to our room at night because the water level was only a meter or three from our front door. Some nights a guard with a flashlight would walk us to the room from dinner, which felt silly, because it took less than 20 seconds to walk from the main house to our chalet (it wasn’t far!), but, of course, better safe than sorry. On one of our last nights, Vera, the office lady came running out of the main house after us as we headed back to our room. We stopped and turned asking, “What? What’s up?” And she, totally straight-faced said, “I just wanted to tell you there is a croc, on your doorstep!” Joel and I both turned and gasped- searching through the dark for the croc. Vera started laughing. She was joking. She had the next couple of days off, and wouldn’t see us again, and wanted to say goodbye. We both regained our breath then, and laughed. I slapped her on the arm in the way you do, and said thanks for scaring the life out of me! :) She was a really nice lady though- funny too! :)

So, that is our trip to Zambia. I think that was pretty much everything. There are so many pictures to show, and I promise that once my blogger rights itself, I will post them.

That’s it for now!

Monday, April 20, 2009

Let's see if this will work...

I’m sick of not being able to post. The posting page still isn’t loading right, but, I am going to try to post something. Most of the buttons are there, so let’s see if this works. I can’t post pictures, because THOSE buttons are missing, but I will try to add in a link to my pictures on face book.

So, Zambia- it was really great. It was, as my sister-in-law (to-be) keeps referring to it, the stereotypical African experience- probably what people think we live in every day, until they think about it for a second. :)

The lodge we stayed at was lovely- not fancy, but nice. It was outside the town of Livingstone, right on the Zambezi River. Funny thing is, the Zambezi is flooded right now (or was when we were there). Flooded higher than it has in 60 years! We had booked a “riverside chalet,” but we ended up in what would usually be the garden view chalet, but now was a riverside, because the river had flooded past the riverside chalets! (Did you get that?) So, yeah, a whole row of chalets was in water, so we took the next best thing. :) One thing that we were told every where we went because of the water level was to watch out for crocs. At all the lodges, etc, everyone asked everyone to stay away from the edge of the water. There was one morning that we saw a croc in the river behind our chalet. It was just a small one, but certainly big enough to take off a foot or whatever.

As I said, the lodge wasn’t fancy- in fact, it even had river water in the taps/toilet/pool- and they provided drinking water. The chalet was nice and cozy, even if the bathroom looked like it needed a good bleachy scrub. The bed had a nice big mosquito net over it- a fairy tale looking like one- as big as the bed- and I have an interesting story about that later.

What made the lodge feel fancy, was the fact that we were the only guests there! So, the staff that was there, were there for us! The office lady came to check on us often, asking if she could organize anything for us- and then following through and doing it all! The waiter from the restaurant would check on us every hour or so on the days when we hung out poolside to see if we needed a drink or snack. The owner who lived just up the street from the place would come down and hang out often. She herself is a Minnesotan, so she was a shot of home for me. We talked about all kinds of things, and by the end of our stay she’d floated a fair share of drinks and desserts on the house our way. Nice.

The lodge had a main house that housed the restaurant, bar, and an upstairs area that had a tv (where Joel watched quite a few hours of soccer games, while I read in the room). We ate all our meals there- mostly breakfast and dinner. I’m not sure if it happened right away on the first day at the first meal, but very soon, we started being visited by a cat at every meal. She was a pretty little tuxedo cat- black with a white chest and white paws. She would come down for EVERY meal and sit and wait for scraps. Liking cats and being a softy, I fed her. We later found out that the reason she was so hungry, was because she was nursing 4 tiny, tiny babies. We got to see them one day, and they were SOOO small. They didn’t even have their eyes open yet. After we got to see the babies, I fed her everything. She got half of Joel’s meat at pretty much every meal, no matter what it was. I fed her bits of my eggs, bread, and I think she ate some of my baked mac and cheese. I actually think that at one meal, she ate MORE than Joel. She was one hungry cat!

To get to our lodge from the airport or town you actually have to drive through a national park- we were lucky enough right on our first trip on our way to the lodge to see a giraffe. It was just right there, on the edge of the road, munching on leaves. :) That was cool.

That first night we went on a cruise down the Zambezi River. We were on a big ole river boat called the African Queen. The cruise was nice, and of course, as luck would have it- who sat right next to us, but an Australian couple! They were not quite our parents’ age, and had been traveling for a month or so. They’d seen a LOT. They let us see some of their pictures on the camera. Very cool. I got very excited about the possibility of seeing hippos. Unfortunately, we didn’t see a single animal while on the cruise. Because the water levels are so high, because it’s the rainy/wet season, there are lots of watering holes in the parks, etc, so the animals don’t need to come to the river to get water. The sunset over the Zambezi was spectacular though. And, heck, the open bar wasn’t bad either. :)

The next morning we rose fairly early and went on a game drive. This game drive was just in the local national park, the same one we drive through on the way to town. It’s not a big park, and had only herbivore animals- elephants, hippos, giraffes, impalas, zebras, rhinos, etc. We saw a couple hippos in the water (so we basically saw their eyes and ears), loads and loads of impala, and lots of giraffes. We also saw a couple zebras, but they were pretty far away. Oh, the park does have crocs, because they just come from the river when they feel like it. They are carnivores, obviously- but, I don’t think there were any other predators in the park. We did get some great pictures and videos of the giraffes especially. I wish I could share them with you! The crazy thing about going on a game drive was that all of a sudden the driver would stop and say, “giraffe.” We would sit and stare, “Giraffe? Where? Do you see a giraffe?” Finally, one or the other of us would see it, and help the other out. I even commented, “It’s like he (our guide) has magic eyes!” If it had just been us driving through the park, we probably would have missed 90% of what we saw. That said, by the end of the drive, I was spotting things too. In fact, one of the best few minutes of giraffe viewing we had was because I saw something move out of the corner of my eye, and made the driver turn around and go the other way. A pack of 10 of them walked right past us. It was awesome. Like I said, I wish I could show you the video!

After that game drive, which only lasted an hour and a half or so, we drove into town and stopped at a market. It was funny because the people all spoke English! Zambia was an English colony so it makes sense, but, we’re not used to it! So, of course, as usual in these types of markets, every stall is basically selling the same things, but every seller begs you to come in, promising that he has nice, but very cheap, things, better and different than anyone else. The signature line that I would attribute to Zambia is, “Looking is for free!” They all kept saying that. It made me smile. I did pick up a little dish made of soapstone that looks like a pond with a hippo in it. :) Joel got a box. Oh, and I also got a print of an elephant. Nice prices too. :)

A great thing about this trip was that every other day, we just stayed at the lodge. We would get up late, have a leisurely breakfast, and then lounge by the pool reading and napping. Livingstone was not nearly as hot as Luanda. They (the locals) kept saying it was hot, but Joel and I had to disagree almost every time. It was beautiful weather- the sun shone every day, only big fluffy clouds in the sky. But the temps stayed more around 25C/77F, rather than the 30-35C/86-95F that we’re used to in Luanda. Mostly, we just noticed that we didn’t sweat every time we went outside, and that even though our chalet didn’t have air conditioning, we were comfortable in it, even midday (unthinkable in Luanda!). Both of us liked this. I know I chose the heat over the cold I left behind, but, I am willing to admit that if I could, I could take having average temps more like that, rather than what we have here. I guess we’ll think about that for our next location. :)

On our third day we had a big day of riding elephants and walking with lions. It was a great day. It was my second time riding an elephant, and I had done it before in Thailand. But it was Joel’s first time. We were both very excited about it. I just think elephants are awesome. You can tell that they are really gentle, smart animals. They have personalities (we rode on the teenager who ran away and came home pregnant!) and their own stories. They were all orphaned elephants, except the ones born at this sanctuary. The place seemed like a nice place too- the elephants were used for rides twice a day, but the rest of the time were let to be elephants- wandering the bush stripping branches of their leaves in one movement of the trunk. Their enclosures did not have gates on them- the elephants were always free to go, but, basically, chose to stay. It definitely seemed that they were happy animals. Again, I wish I could show you pictures, because, well, they are worth a thousand words. Trusting that blogger will work for me again someday, I’ll leave this at that, and post the pictures someday. :)

In the afternoon, after a few hour wait, we met with the lion keepers. The lions that we walked with were also part of a program- a repopulation program. We were participating in the first stage of the program, which involves humans raising lion cubs, and teaching them to live in the wild, and have a social hierarchy. Those lions go on to live in monitored habitats. Once they demonstrate normal pride behavior, they then go on to live in monitored habitats that have other predators and no interaction with humans. Finally, when these lions have cubs in those habitats, the cubs are taken to the real wild, and continue to repopulate the wild lion population.

So, we got to walk with these lions- there were three of them, 2 girls, sisters, and a boy. The girls were 7 months old, and the boy was 9 months old. We were each given a stick to defend ourselves with, and taught how to use it. The stick was to be used as a distraction, and our voices/gazes to be used as the real behavior management. A stern look in the eye and No! was apparently enough to keep these lions from misbehaving, if they tried. We just had to show them that we ranked higher than they did. So, we walked with the lions. We stopped and took lots of pictures with the lions. We pet the lions. We got to hold the lions’ tails as we walked with them. We got to watch the lions perk up as we neared the river and the air cooled. They started playing with each other- just like Bumbi used to play with me really- except obviously, which much more serious consequences! It was really a once in a lifetime kind of experience. Very cool. Again, we have lots of pictures, and someday I will share them.

On the fourth day, we rested. :)

On Friday, we finally headed to the falls! Victoria Falls is of course the biggest attraction in Livingstone, but, for some reason, we had left it for late in the week. It didn’t matter- it was amazing, seen on the first day or the last day or one in the middle. The falls is one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. It is one of the biggest waterfalls in the world. Latvia’s biggest waterfall in Europe looks like a puddle compared to what we saw here. It’s just so big, and there is just so much water (especially now that the river is flooded) that when you get too close, you just can’t see anything, because of the mist. In fact, we even were able to see the falls from our airplane as we flew into Zambia, not because of the river or falls itself, but because of the mist that rises up from it. SO MUCH WATER. I really cannot tell the story of this without the pictures- we had to wear two raincoats to go near the falls, and we still got wet. It was cool. I’ll upload pictures as soon as I can!

Now, I’ve been writing for over an hour, and it’s getting late, and I need to sleep…so if this post works, I’ll come back tomorrow or the next day, and tell you about the rest of the trip. Let’s hope it works and that some of you are still coming back to check on me, even though I haven’t posted in so long! I’ve even contacted blogger help services to try to figure out what is going on…but no luck so far… I’ll keep working on it! :)